Sarah Nadarajah is more than just a maker and owner of Rocky Canyon Rustic. She’s also an inspiration to folks who want to tackle custom projects but lack the confidence to get started. Host Kevin O’Connor visits her shop to talk about her content, but also to join her in building a custom end table with some of Sarah’s favorite techniques.
Build a Custom End Table
Note: Your project will require custom measurements. These are the rough steps with the need-to-know information highlighted. Simply adjust your project according to your tastes.
- Start by breaking the plywood panels down into the sides, top, vertical support, and shelves. Do this by measuring the plywood, marking the cuts, and cutting them with the circular saw. You can create a straight edge using a scrap board and two squeeze clamps.
- Draw the curve on the top board. Find the center of the board by measuring the width and dividing by two, marking the board. Then, measure the same distance from the front edge and mark the board. Drive a nail into the wood at this point and hook the tape measure around the nail. Then hook the pencil with the end of the tape measure and draw across the surface in an arc, creating a perfect curve. Cut along the curve with the jigsaw.
- Use the top as a guide for the shelf by placing it on top of the shelf board, and then sliding it back from the front ¾ of an inch. Trace the arc and cut it out with a jigsaw.
- Place the vertical support piece in the center of the shelf board. Trace along the edge on both sides to create two lines, ¾-inch from each other, on the shelf board. Use the circular saw to cut along these lines, resulting in two separate shelf boards.
- Dry fit the panels and mark the edges and locations for pocket holes. Use the pocket hole jig and drill to drill the pocket holes.
- Run a bead of glue along the edges of the boards and assemble them using the drill and pocket hole screws. Keep the boards as square as possible during assembly, using a speed square to support the boards while attaching them.
- Squeeze a bit of glue into the pocket hole screws and insert plugs. Allow them to dry before trimming with the flush-cut saw and sanding them.
- Apply edgebanding to the exposed edges of the plywood. Use the clothing iron to apply steam and heat to the edge banding, activating the adhesive. Trim to size with a utility knife and sand smooth.
- Sand the entire project before applying water-based stain. Remove any excess stain with a rag. Apply additional coats as desired.
- Apply faux marble contact paper to the top of the table. Smooth out any bubbles with a flat squeegee tool.
Resources
To cut the 3/4” plywood to size, Sarah uses a circular saw. To shape the round edges of the shelves, she uses a jigsaw. She then uses a pocket hole jig and drills holes for screws to attach the middle divider and back piece. To cover the holes, she uses pocket hole plugs and wood glue and sands with 220-grit sandpaper to make it flush.
Sarah uses a hot iron to adhere edge banding to the edges of the wood to create a finished look.
To finish it off, Sarah applies a walnut stain with a brush and wipes away any excess.
Materials
- ¾-inch maple plywood
- Nails
- Wood glue
- Pocket hole screws
- Sandpaper
- Pocket hole plugs
- Edgebanding
- Water-based stain
- Marble-look contact paper
